Flinders Ranges: The land before time

Whether it’s adventure or relaxation you’re seeking, the Flinders Ranges won’t leave you disappointed. Words: Clair Morton

Published: Wednesday, May 30, 2018

It’s hard to say exactly when the landscape changes on the drive north from Adelaide, but once you’re in heart of the Flinders Ranges, there’s no escaping it.

Expanses of rich red soil traversed by emus and kangaroos, scenic hills harbouring the oldest evidence of life on Earth, imposing  mountain ranges looming over the sparse plains – everything about this land feels primal, almost alien.

Here, it’s easy to see why so many people call South Australia the gateway to the outback.

The first English settlers in this region were working against the elements, as evidenced by the highly photogenic ruins of the long abandoned Kanyaka cattle and sheep station north of Quorn, the well-preserved buildings at the Old Wilpena Homestead, and the pitch-black passageways of Blinman’s copper mine.

The highest town in South Australia, Blinman is now home to just 18 people, but was once a huge tented community with a population of about 2000.

This was due to a huge copper deposit discovered in the hills in 1859, dug out over the next 60 years or so by Cornish migrants.

Visitors can be transported back to those days by booking the Blinman Underground Mine tour, which is run by locals and takes you into the heart of the mine.

Kanyaka Ruins
Step back in time at the Kanyaka Ruins.

If you’re looking to go even further back in time – say 570 million years – Flinders is the place for that too.

Long before dinosaurs roamed the earth, the mountain rang-es were hidden under an inland sea full of weird and wonderful creatures, which left their mark on the land in a spectacular fashion.

Today, the Ediacaran-era fossils dotted through the Flinders are believed to tell the story of the very first life on Earth.

One place you can learn a little more about them is the Prairie Hotel in Parachilna, a classy outback joint famed for its innovative and delicious menu with a ‘feral food’ twist (think camel, emu and kangaroo), and the perfect place to rest your head as you start your Flinders journey.

If you’re lucky you might meet owners Jane and Ross Fargher, who discovered a pristine Ediacaran fossil site on their own property in the 1980s, which became the focus of ground-breaking research.

It was even featured in David Attenborough’s program First Life in 2009.

Ikara Safari Camp
Go glamping at Wilpena Pound Resort's Ikara Safari Camp.

Deeper into the Ikara-Flinders National Park, you’ll find accommodation for all budgets, from gorgeous eco-villas and homestead-for-rent at Rawnsley Park Station to the rooms and picturesque camping spots at Wilpena Pound Resort.

If you’re looking for something a bit more unique, how does waking up in a king bed to the laugh of kookaburras and shuffling of kangaroos sound?

Wilpena Pound Resort’s Ikara Safari Camp is home to a circle of glamping tents, which have all the creature comforts of a hotel room while retaining the sense of adventure camping brings.

There’s even a fire pit to roast your own marshmallows, and a front porch from which to take in the bright stars of the Milky Way.

A peaceful night in a safari camp tent is enough to have you waking up invigorated and ready to take on a six-hour hike.

That’s if you don’t get stuck in bed admiring the view.

wedge-tailed eagle, Flinders Ranges
Wedge-tailed eagles are a common sight.

There’s a heap of bushwalking trails that wind their way through Wilpena Pound – all of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty.

Search for the elusive yellow-footed rock wallaby on the WilkawillinaGorge hike, or take a short stroll through the gum-lined creek at Sacred Canyon, where you can find ancient Aboriginal rock engravings of the Adnyamathanha people.

If you’re up for a bigger challenge, why not tackle St Mary Peak – the highest point in the Flinders Ranges, which offers stunning views of the ranges, surrounding plains and salt lakes further afield.

If that’s not high enough, there’s another, immensely easy, way to see Wilpena Pound and the surrounding mountain ranges of the Flinders in all their glory – from the sky.

Honestly, if there’s one thing you splash out on during your trip through the Flinders Ranges, make it a scenic flight. They take off several times a day from the Wilpena airstrip, and once you’re in the air it’s easy to see why.

Like a jigsaw puzzle, everything just falls into place when you look at it from a new perspective. And it’s breathtaking.

Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges
Fly over Wilpena Pound.

Other highly recommended ways to appreciate the landscape include venturing up to the Stokes Hill Lookout at sunset, taking a drive through Parachilna Gorge, or jumping on a 4WD tour through Rawnsley Park Station.

No matter where you go though, it can be pretty much guaranteed that you’ll run into (hopefully not literally) native wildlife at every turn.

Emus and kangaroos are most common, while it’s not unusual to see a pair of wedge-tailed eagles soaring overhead.

On the way home, there’s one more place that really captures the essence of the Flinders – the Jeff Morgan Gallery at Hawker, which must be seen to be believed, and if you arrive by plane at the nearby airport, they’ll even pick you up in a Rolls Royce.

Lastly, stop in at the newly opened Flinders Food Co and tuck into a native Quandong pie for a final taste of the outback.

We promise you’ll head home fulfilled, relaxed, and ready to come back.

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